Headlight Switch Restoration
The switch I was working on was for '64 Datsun NL320, but there should be some similarities among other switches.
I don't think I'll go into great detail in the text, I'll just put up the pics which should tell most of the story. Basically, I took it apart, cleaned it in the glass bead cabinet, the did a bit of testing before bending the holding tabs back over.
Please take note the once I verified that power was getting to the switch, I then pulled the fuse. The power for the light circuit does not go through the ignition switch, so you need to either pull the fuse or disconnect the ground side of the battery. Also, be very careful not to drop or lose the tiny springs under the plate when you take it apart.
I don't think I'll go into great detail in the text, I'll just put up the pics which should tell most of the story. Basically, I took it apart, cleaned it in the glass bead cabinet, the did a bit of testing before bending the holding tabs back over.
Please take note the once I verified that power was getting to the switch, I then pulled the fuse. The power for the light circuit does not go through the ignition switch, so you need to either pull the fuse or disconnect the ground side of the battery. Also, be very careful not to drop or lose the tiny springs under the plate when you take it apart.
I'm adding this pic at the end because if you look at the wiring list in the previous pic, it doesn't quite make sense as to how the running/dash lights stay on in the full "out" position. If you look at the terminal the meter lead is on(the one with an "X" in the wiring list, which means no wire is connected), you'll see a brass jumper between it and the terminal to the left of it. That is what ties the power back to the other two terminals when the switch is pulled all the way out.
